Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): The Ultimate Guide to Brighter, Smoother Skin

What Are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)?

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a type of water-soluble exfoliating acids found naturally in various fruits. For example:

• Glycolic Acid – the common AHA, derived from cane sugar
• Lactic Acid – found in milk, better suited for sensitive skin
• Mandelic Acid – found in almonds, has antibacterial properties
• Citric Acid – found in citrus fruits, but mostly used to adjust pH
• Malic Acid – found in apple and pear
• Tartaric Acid – obtained from grape

These AHAs are called “alpha” because their molecular structure contains a carboxyl group which gives them exfoliating properties.

How do AHAs work? (How AHAs Work on Your Skin)

AHAs act as chemical exfoliants. How they exfoliate the top layer of skin is explained in detail below:

1. Bond Break of Stratum Corneum

The outermost layer of the skin is called the Stratum Corneum. Dead skin cells are stuck in this layer by bonds called desmosomes. AHAs weaken these bonds, allowing dead cells to detach more easily.

This process is called desquamation. As a result, the skin becomes:

• Smoother
• Brighter
• Less clogged

2. Increasing Cell Turnover Rate

AHAs not only remove dead cells, they also increase the cell turnover rate. Normally, skin cell turnover takes 28-40 days, but with the use of AHAs it is reduced to 14-21 days. As a result:

• Skin appears more youthful
• Fine lines and wrinkles are reduced
• Skin texture improves

3. Stimulating Collagen Production

Some studies have shown that AHAs, especially Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, help increase collagen production. Collagen is an important skin protein that keeps the skin firm and elastic. As a result:

• Skin sagging is reduced
• Wrinkles and fine lines are reduced
• Skin looks more youthful

4. Improving Skin Barrier Function

Many people think that the use of AHAs damages the skin barrier, but in fact, with regular and proper use, AHAs strengthen the skin barrier. They:

• Increase the production of Ceramides
• Help rebuild the lipid layer of the skin barrier
• Increase the moisture retention capacity of the skin

Benefits of AHAs

The use of AHAs has many benefits for the skin. Below are some of the main benefits:

1. Reduces Hyperpigmentation and Dark Spots

AHAs, especially Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, help regulate the production of melanin. As a result:

• Sunspots are reduced
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is reduced
• Overall skin tone improves

2. Reduces Acne and Breakouts

AHAs unclog skin pores and remove dead cells. As a result:

• Pores are less clogged
• Appearance of acne vulgaris is reduced
• Blackheads and whiteheads are reduced

3. Reduces Fine Lines and Wrinkles

AHAs increase collagen production and increase cell turnover rate. As a result:

• Fine lines are reduced
• Wrinkles decrease in depth
• Skin looks more youthful

4. Reduces Rough Texture and Dullness

AHAs remove dead cells and improve skin texture. As a result:

• Skin becomes smoother
• Dullness is reduced
• Skin looks more radiant

5. Reduces Ingrown Hairs

AHAs help reduce the problem of ingrown hairs as they remove dead cells and keep pores clean. As a result:

• Presence of ingrown hairs is reduced

Correct Routine for Using AHAs

Following a proper routine for using AHAs is very important. Below is a step-by-step routine:

Step 1: Cleanser

Skin should be cleansed before using AHAs. Use a gentle cleanser that will not disturb the skin’s pH balance. For example:

• CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser
• La Roche-Posay Toleriane Purifying Foaming Cleanser

Step 2: AHA Treatment

A variety of products are available to use AHAs. For example:

• Serum: The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution
• Toner: Pixi Glow Tonic
• Moisturizer: First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Polish Pads
• Peel: Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial

Start with low concentration (5-10%) and increase gradually.

Step 3: Moisturizer

Keeping the skin hydrated after using AHAs is very important. Use a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer. For example:

• Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel
• Vanicream Moisturizing Cream

Step 4: Sunscreen (the most important step!)

The use of AHAs makes the skin more sensitive to UV rays. So it is very important to use SPF 30+ daily. For example:

• EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46
• La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-in Milk Sunscreen SPF 60

Things to keep in mind when using AHAs

There are some important things to keep in mind while using AHAs to avoid damaging the skin.

1. Concentration and pH Level

Concentrations of AHAs are generally considered safe up to 5-10%. For sensitive skin it is best to start from 5%. A pH level of 3.0-4.0 is considered most effective.

2. Frequency of Use

Using AHAs 1-2 times weekly is enough to get started. Frequency can be increased gradually if the skin can tolerate it. But in case of daily use, low concentration and high pH product must be used.

3. Combining with Other Actives

AHAs can be used in combination with other active ingredients, but some combinations should be avoided. For example:

• AHAs + Retinol: May cause irritation if used at the same time. Use at different times.
• AHAs + Vitamin C: Both are beneficial, but for sensitive skin it is better to use them at different times.
• AHAs + Benzoyl Peroxide: Benzoyl Peroxide has a very low pH, which may reduce the effectiveness of AHAs. Use at different times.

4. Who Should Avoid AHAs?

For some people the use of AHAs can cause problems. For example:

• Very sensitive skin that gets irritated easily
• People with Eczema or Rosacea
• Pregnant or lactating women (except on doctor’s advice)
• A person with an open wound or cut on the skin

AHAs vs. BHAs: What’s the Difference?

AHAs and BHAs are both exfoliating acids, but their mode of action and benefits are different. See the comparison below:

Skin care after using AHAs

It is very important to take care of the skin after using AHAs to keep the skin healthy and not irritated.

1. Hydration

Keeping the skin hydrated after using AHAs is very important. Use a moisturizer rich in Hyaluronic Acid. For example:

• The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
• Vichy Mineral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Serum

2. Soothing Ingredients

Use products rich in soothing ingredients to keep the skin calm. For example:

• Aloe Vera gel
• Centella Asiatica (Cica)
• Niacinamide

3. Avoid Harsh Products

Avoid using alcohol-based products, strong fragrances, or any other harsh ingredients after using AHAs.

What kind of side effects can occur after using AHAs?

Some common side effects can occur after using AHAs, especially in those who are new to them. For example:

• Redness: AHAs can cause temporary skin redness as they exfoliate the top layer of the skin. It usually subsides within a few hours to a day. However, if redness is severe or long-lasting, reduce the frequency of use of AHAs or take a break.
• Dryness or Tightness: Using AHAs can cause the skin to feel a bit dry or tight due to the removal of dead skin cells. This problem can usually be controlled by using a moisturizer. However, reduce the frequency of use of AHAs if excessive dryness occurs.
• Increased Sun Sensitivity: Using AHAs causes the top layer of the skin to thin, thereby increasing the skin’s sensitivity to the sun’s harmful UV rays. So after using AHAs it is necessary to use sunscreen with SPF 30+. Otherwise, hyperpigmentation or skin damage is likely.
• Burning or Stinging Sensation: If the skin feels burning or stinging after using AHAs, it is likely due to a skin pH imbalance. In this case, reduce the frequency of use of AHAs or use AHAs of lower concentration.

These side effects are usually temporary and subside within a few weeks as the skin gets used to it. However, if these problems persist or cause severe skin damage, consult a dermatologist.

What to do to reduce side effects after using AHAs?

If side effects occur after using AHAs, these problems can be minimized by following a few simple steps. For example:

• Gradual Introduction: Start using AHAs in low concentrations (5% to 7%) and low frequency (1-2 times a week). You can gradually increase the frequency when the skin gets used to it.
• Moisturize Regularly: Skin can become dry after using AHAs. So use moisturizer regularly. Especially those moisturizers that contain Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramides or Glycerin help the skin retain water.
• Use Soothing Ingredients: Use products containing Calendula, Aloe Vera, Centella Asiatica or Niacinamide to soothe the skin after using AHAs. These ingredients help reduce skin inflammation.
• Always Apply Sunscreen: After using AHAs, the skin becomes very sensitive to the harmful rays of the sun. So use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30+ every morning. Sunscreen should be used even indoors.
• Avoid Harsh Products: Avoid using any other exfoliating products (such as BHAs, Retinol or Scrubs) on the skin after using AHAs. It has the potential to damage the skin.

When should AHAs be discontinued?

If any of the following symptoms occur after using AHAs, discontinue use immediately and consult a dermatologist if necessary:

• Excessive skin redness or inflammation: If the skin becomes very red, swollen, or painful, discontinue use of AHAs.
• Severe skin dryness or cracking: If skin becomes so dry that it cracks or bleeds, stop using AHAs.
• Prolonged skin irritation or discomfort: If skin irritation or discomfort persists after a few days of using AHAs, it is likely that the skin is not tolerating the AHAs.
• Development of new skin problems: If new skin problems such as rash, hives or allergic reactions develop after using AHAs, discontinue use immediately.

Home Remedies for Side Effects After Using AHAs

If the skin experiences minor redness or dryness after using AHAs, these problems can be minimized by following a few home remedies:

• Aloe Vera Gel: Pure Aloe Vera Gel provides a cooling effect on the skin and helps reduce inflammation. After using AHAs, apply Aloe Vera Gel on the skin and leave it for 10-15 minutes and wash it off.
• Cucumber Juice: Cucumber juice helps reduce skin inflammation and soothes the skin. Apply cucumber juice on the skin with the help of cotton and leave it for 15 minutes and wash it off.
• Green Tea Compress: Green tea reduces skin inflammation and acts as an antioxidant. Apply the green tea caterpillar on the skin and leave it for 10 minutes and wash it off.
• Coconut Oil or Olive Oil: If the skin becomes too dry, you can massage a small amount of coconut oil or olive oil on the skin. But for those who have oily skin, it is better to avoid this method.

Conclusion

AHAs are exfoliating ingredients used in skin care, helping to make skin brighter, smoother and healthier. However, some common side effects can occur after using AHAs, such as redness, dryness, increased sensitivity to the sun, and temporary burning. These side effects are usually temporary and subside within a few weeks as the skin gets used to it. However, if these problems persist or cause severe skin damage, consult a dermatologist.

Some important points to keep in mind while using AHAs are:

• Use low concentrations of AHAs at first and gradually increase the frequency.
• Use sunscreen daily, as the skin becomes more sensitive to the sun’s harmful rays after using AHAs.
• Use moisturizer regularly to keep skin hydrated.
• Avoid using AHAs together with other exfoliating products or harsh products.

Finally, be sure to do a patch test before using AHAs and use them appropriately according to your skin condition. If the skin is sensitive or has other problems, consult a skin care specialist and then start using AHAs. Patience and consistency are key in skin care—so give skin time after using AHAs and gradually see results.